• Trying to use the European accent marks over the wrong characters.
  They will not work unless used with the correct letters. Some fonts may not have accent marks. Earlier Wizzards and XL’s did have accent marks, but some versions of 5 font XL’s did not have the accent marks.
  
• The “O” accent will put a line through a O, not print a O
  Try other accents. Do all of them work or only one? If only one doesn’t work, faulty keyboard
  
• Try keys with normal digits to see if the keys function
  Make sure the keyboard is working properly
  

• When using autolayout, will not accept a new created layout
  Caused by not entering choice of “USE THIS AUTOLAYOUT” before leaving the autolayout screen.
  
• Phantom blank lines when using an autolayout caused by:
  Not erasing extra tic-pairs from the previous autolayout.
  

• Bad CPU-B V2.20, Letters would go zonkers on screen; when try to use internal fonts, actions varied: cutter moved, eccentric bar moved, contstant lock up.
  
• Wizzard XL Bad CPU-A & OR PROCESSOR (8085 - RIGHT SIDE) + CD Program Error, Bad letter Code, Start engraving shutter and stops, returns home,
  

• Wizzard - Rifa Chips on motherboard
  
• Lubricate rails and v_wheels BreakFree or 3-In-1 oil
  
• Plastic leadscrew coupling underneath clamping carriage housing bad/binding or dirty; adjust or replace.
  
• Stepper Motor
  
• Stepper Motor Coupler
  
• Loose 1/16 - 1/4 ich off baseline most of the time. Check set screws on coupling between leadscrew and stepper motor
  
• XL - Stepper Driver Board
  
• RIFA Chips on Stepper Driver Board
  
• My Home position kept varying, even after I set a new Home position. I even replaced the WE2’s. My problem turned out to be a bent shaft on my diamond engraver tip.
  
• If baseline or margins are consitently off when working with a particular jig, you may have to reset Home or the indivudual jig.
• Left/Right Margins off
  Blank at the end of a line
  Left or right justification on-should be visible on CRT
  
• Baselines off
  If 1/4 inch off, could be using wrong jigs, such as using Jig B when the set-up was done for Jig A on the Job Option Screen. Also if XL using 2.41 and above, not setting correctly. Do not use dimple for 2.41 when setting A & B; only when setting HOME.
  Cutter Not Square-or improperly squared. Reference to Squaring Cutter Box
  Plate dimensions differ from those actually entered.
  
• HOME position off
  Reset Home. If XL using 2.41 and above, also reset A & B jigs. Also if problem is only with one jig, try resetting that jig. If still persists replace WE2.
  
• Stepper Motor
  
• If while using engraving motor; check without. Bad motor or brushes can cause irregular baselines through electrical interence
  
• Plate not centered in jigs or using wrong jig.
  
• Improper lubrication on leadscrews, v-wheels, rails. Avoid the use of grease, especially the white kind that early Wizzard manuals recommended.
  
• WE2 chips (very common with varying baselines while engraving). These chips store the HOME and A & B jig settings; electrical interference can damage these, or cause temporary loss of HOME/jig settings.
  
• Power supply
  
• Motherboard
  RAM chip - 1st choice
  XL - Not Centering left to right, Slewed OKAY.Position U220 -Also check C_Table, U232
  C-Table (U-28 on Wizzard)
  Wizzard CPU-B 2.12 U27 - update
  

• XL - U230

• Motherboard
  
• WE2
  
• CPU-A software
  
• RIFA’s
  
• RAM chips (64K Ram if not error message)
  
• Internal Font
  
• Pressed HOME on XL; went HOME and then went to lower right corner and stopped; bad relay on U10.
  
• Engraving Motor
  
• Stepper Motor
  
• Power Supply
  
• A font cartridge works loose during engraving
  
• Keyboard (computes twice or other) - disconnect keyboard
  
• External Table switch on XL
  
• Static or other electrical interference
  
• Most often caused by bad engraving motor or worn motor brushes
  
• Engraver not on dedicated circuit. I have taken a big floor vacuum unit that was on a dedicated circuit other than the engraver and placed it under a table where the Wizzard Xl was sitting. Everytime the vacuum was turned on, it caused severe problems (interference) with the XL.
  
• While engraving, cutter would take off in various directions. When Shift+Compute, you could could see a line, which in turn the cutter would follow. If Shift+Computer okay, engraving would be okay. Turned out to be CPU B processor.
  
• Static discharge from carpet, floor.
  

• Strange, cursor in left, top of screen, Video Generator
  
• Cursor Freezes and the machines table will not respond to any commands
  
• Switch on back of XL in ON position; normal position is OFF. The ON is for the Mark XII external table.
  
• Keyboard
  
• Holding down a key when while initializing will cause cursor to lock up on start. Hitting HOME will release cursor.
  
• Removing flatpack under big chips.
  
• Computed twice
  
• Quick cursor flash; acted like keyboard problem. U154-U155 replaced. Jack said probably caused by keyboard not being grounded.
  
• XL Cursor Freezing Problem
  
• We have found a problem with National brand Video Ram chips, which are causing cursor to freeze and occasionally generating stray characters. Do not use National brand Video Rams on XL’s or Wizzard’s. If problem occurs, we will replace on WPR/RMA. Likely serial numbers may be 901050 through 906240.
  
• XL - Cursor problem - sometimes yes, sometimes no. Found out that cursor was waiting for input from A side. Finally solved problem by removing flatpack from U201 A-side.
  
• XL cursor - inconsistent. Finally found that remvoving both font cartridges solved problem.
  

• XL paused at cutter down, and lock up at self intialization (intermittently). Would boot up with cart in back slot. Replaced U158 and it came up better, but still paused. U156 solved the problem.
  

• Recently, I noticed that my diamond graver was hitting the AB jigs every time the machine finished a job and returned Home. I thought my cutter box must have dropped down. But upon trying to square my cutter, I noticed that the silver eccentric bar was not completely picking up the cutter box when I released the CUTTER DOWN key. I loosened the set screw on the right side and rotated the eccentric bar where it lowered the cutter to the plate when I pressed the SHIFT+CUTTER DOWN.
  
• Eccentric bar obstruction acted like white screw hitting bar, but turned out to be pointer knob on spindle was turned around backwards and was hitting eccentric bar.
  
• Set screw on right side of eccentric bar that holds the tightens to the stepper motor.
  
• Loosen set screw, realign and tighten screw back up.
  
• If your silver eccentric bar (cutter up and down) is more noisy than usual, and lubricating it doesn’t solve the problem, try this tip to reduce vibration.
  
• On older machines, 1990 and earlier that have washers on both ends of the eccentric bar, it’s possible to loosen the allen screw on the right side of the eccentric bar. By loosening this screw, the eccentric bar can be shifted to the left. This quitens the eccentric bar on both the Wizzard and XL.
  
• Apply a flathead screwdriver between the right side of the eccentric bar and the side of the pan assembly. Gently pry the eccentric bar to the left. Then retighten the allen screw to hold the eccentric bar in its new location.
  
• Make sure not to rotate the eccentric bar once the allen screw is loose. It it does, make sure when you retighten that the allen screw comes in contact with the flat portion of the stepper motor rod.
  
• Be careful not to force the eccentric bar too far to the left. This could cause the eccentric bar to jam. Or If your bar is forced too far to the left, it will not hit the engraving frame, and rotate 1-1/4 turns everytime you try to HOME.
  
• Stepper Motor
  
• Adjust the nylon screw making contact with the eccentric bar
  
• Lubricate left end of eccentric bar.
  
• Motherboard
  
• Check RIFA Chips for temperature; hot is good, cold is bad.
  
• Cutter Down and eccentric bar would rotate backwards. Connector on backwards.
  
• When cutter down, eccentric bar would rebound and not stay in up (Home) position. Problem turned out to be white nylon screw had dropped down from cutter box. Eccentric bar was hitting it when it tried to HOME,
  
• Stepper Driver board on the XL
  
• Rifa Chips
  

• No variance in motor speed
  
• Bad engraving motor
  
• Check the motor brushes
  
• ?Are knobs seated properly, or do they turn all the way around(broken off at bottom)
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• On/Off Switch assembly
  
• Check fuse by the switch if you have a push button switch. Usually if the light is out the fuse or the switch itself is bad.
  
• Is the motor speed control turned to 10.
  
• TESTS TO RUN:
  
• Check the connectors between the AC Distribution board and the switch control board in the switch pack
  
• Check the on/off switches with an ohm meter to make sure they openand close
  
• Repair/Replace
  
• Fuse
  
• Connectors
  
• On/Off Switch
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• Motor Brushes
  
• Engraving Motor
  
• If the MOTOR ON/OFF is on and the motor doesn’t work check to see if turning motor speed control. If it doesn’t help, change the motor brushes in the engraving motor.
  
• Switches are illuminated, but the machine dies not operate; i.e., the engraving motor button is illuminated, but the Engraving Motor does not work.
  
• AC Switch Pack
  
• If MOTOR ON/OFF doesn’t light up and the engraving motor doesn’t work
  
• MOTOR SWITCH fuse
  
• AC Distribution board - not much variation
  
• Engraving motor brushes
  
• No variation in engraving motor speed
  
• Check the motor brushes.
  
• Are knobs seated properly, or do the turn all the way around? (broken off at bottom)
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• On/Off Switch Assembly
  
• Slows down, sometimes stops. Quits after 2-3 plates. Changed motor brushes.
  
• Massive interference on screen and actually caused Stepper motors/rifa chips to go crazy. Actually sounded like engraving motor or stepper motors had lost bearings. Stopped in middle of job. Bad engraving motor.
  
• PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING
  
• First check voltage at engraving motor connector at AC Distribution board. B & W wire should show 80-120 DC. If voltage OK, then AC Board is Okay. If light at switch is on, then problem is with engraving motor, brushes, or motor wiring. If motor switch not illuminated (assuming bulb is good), then switch or power pak, or wiring in between. The engraving motor is a AC/DC motor,that uses DC power from the AC Distribution board. Although AC, Jack advises against plugging into wall. Might work, but may not.
  

• New style power pak - Cutter RPM problem is probably within power pak, Engraving speed is with motherboard.
  
• VARIATION IN ENGRAVING SPEED WHILE ENGRAVING
  
• Sharon Boyd’s machine - pad 50 poentiometer
  
• 05/11/93-Wizzard II (Bird’s). While engraving, would randomly pause during letters, then would continue without inteferring with letter quality. Replaced U22 timing chip (D8253P-5).
  
• While trying to solve the problem, I started changing the RAM chips. Variations of mising speed (20 in place of 15), the symptoms started increasing, and finally locked up.
  
• 2/94 -Wizzard II - sometimes barely moving when engraving; eratic movement. Real slow when trying to slew- have to hold down keys for a longer period of time - U88 timing chip
  
• Wizzard Counter Error - # of pulses per second that is sent out to stepper driver. Symptom - Engraving Speed Inconsistent. U88 Timing chip.
  
• Started engraving and would slow down and quit, and then would start again. Potentiometer on Engraving Speed control.
  

• Expand on this are with problems associated with EFC. See section for proper use.
  
• Concerning the Eternal Cartridge problem. Usually if a machine locks ups when initializing with an EFC installed, one of the logos is usually bad. However, if your logos work after rebooting, the problem usually lies in one of two areas - the EFC or the buffer chips on the main board of the Wizzard. Most likely it’s the buffer chips, which require board level repairs. If the EFC won’t work with a logo(s) that have worked in the past, its the small, replaceable chip next to the gold card edge connectors. In one instance, we had a member who’s EFC would only work with 1 or two chips. He found that the #3 chip recepticle was bad. The EFC’s usually are not the problem, but most problems occur when the EFC is inserted improperly (at a slight angle causing the gold connectors to short out.
  
• Fonts do not load (FONT Cartridge)
  
• Buffer chip on main board
  
• XL - Sn74S244 - Won’t Load External Font U-234, Buffer Chip.
  
• Using an EFC with STOP BIT in front of font cartridge
  
• Check for obstruction in port
  
• XL - Would load and INIT with one cart, but not with both. Locked up at INIT screen Replaced U234.
  
• Maverick Awards - was inserting EFC with power on. Knock out board. Had to replace one of the processors. It came back up. It would read external fonts, but would not recognize internal fonts. Took out cartridge and internal fonts were blank. Replaced U233 & U210. Rock and roll
  
• XL- Wouldn't load EFC 225 and 234
  
• 07/17/89, Stop Bit problems
  

• Problem with cartridge. Didn’t fit in very good (from Western). Had to grind down metal frame of cartridge at least 1/8” on each side for good fit.
  
• Thinking a cartridge is faulty because all of the fonts will not work when two cartridge font sets are installed in the machine.
  
• The machine can only have 8 fonts total (the two in the machine, 4 off the first font set cartridge, and the first 2 off the second font set cartridge). (??This is contradictory to staement under Terms, Font Port// - Check and correct).
  

• XL - Will read internal fonts, and when reading the EFC, will show a blank for each name and recognize the number of fonts, but will not show font name. U221 & U222 - Address chips.
  
• XL -Does not initialize - sometimes - locks up at init screen; also displayed font 2 error and had blank spaces as though there were more fonts than there were (had 2).U225. Jack put in cart in slot 1 and 2 and font problem disappeared. Jack said machine thought it had cartridge in it when it didn’t.?U234
  
• XL XTRA 1.03 & Standard versions- Font error; cycled through font 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B, etc. Replaced U225. Also another occurrence with same but replaced U210.
  
• Internal Fonts came up with blank names; U210
  
• Would initialize and come up without font cart. Used EFC and name was blank for External Cart font, others Okay. Wouldn’t initialize with standard Dahlgren cart U234.
  
• When using External fonts (in EFC), garbeled names and blanks after actual font. Engraves okay. When using Dahlgren font cartridges, performs aokay. Had to start using STop Bit chip in EFC.
  
• Wz-fonts-no internal fonts showing (U41-U42); Also U70 may affect
  
• XL-Inserted cart wrong, blew U210. Started working okay, but wouldn’t load cartridges unless EFC was in front and standard in back. Came up with Circle code error, bad font error, stopped in mid job. Also blew power supply.
  

• If continued blowing of fuses
  
• Engraving Motor
  
• Power Supply
  
• AC Distribution Board.
  
• Blew out Main fuse (pow!) after reinstalling pan. Power at power supply, and coming in from back. Found wires from AC board to main board had been frayed because of placement of pan. Taped up wires and tied down assy, replace fuse.
  
• Auxiliary Fuse Blows
  
• A vacuum cleaner or other accessory drawing more than 5A will blow fuses, and even cause program errors.
  
• Try plugging in something less powerful.
  
• Check fuse holder for signs of overheating (melted or burned?).
  
• Make sure the fuse if good and/or the correct size of is being used.
  
• REPAIR REPLACE
  
• Fuse Holder, Cap, or Fuse
  
• Auxiliary plug is bad
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• You’ll need a 3 amp, 110-120 volt, 60 hertz grounded AC outlet. (Wizzard Book)
  
• Wo avoid electrical interferentct, connect the Wizzard to its own dedicated, single line curcuti. If a dedicated circuit is not possible, use a line isolator with surge protection. Not problesm with extension cords and using in a “BARN”. Possiblity of using a UPS.
  

• SAYS “MOVING TO HOME” BUT NO MOVEMENT
  
• Turn off machine, turn back on - hit home button Run slew test, check for all axis movement, test limit switches
  
• Check Rifa Chip temperature for hot or cold
  
• Test Power Supply for +24 Volts
  
• After completing a job, wouldn’t completlely return to home. Motor was running. Did job without motor and returned to home. Also getting screen static and grinding noises like a bad stepper motor. Problem was bad engraving motor.
  
• Repair/replace
  
• Rifa Chips
  
• Limit switch
  
• Power supply
  
• 74LS373 Port Driver Chip (U35/36)
  
• 74LS244 Port Driver Chip (U21)
  
• Can’t Set Home Position
  
• Questions To Ask
  
• Have they ever reset home position before? Make sure you are using the correct procedure for you particular version of CPU-A software.
  
• Wizzard - Have they had any problems loading or saving jobs?
  
• Tests To Run
  
• Go through setting home procedure with customer
  
• Check off-sets when resetting
  
• Try setting a jig, and engrave a job using that jig
  
• Check the Power Supply for -12 Volts
  
• Repair/replace
  
• WE-2 Chips
  
• Power Supply
  
• Attempting to reset home using “SET JIGS” instead of “SHIFT/SET JIGS”.
  
• Home position off because home was not set properly.
  
• The machine continuously tries to go home (grinds at the upper left hand corner), moves to the lower right hand corner of the machine instead of going home, or the eccentric bar continues to go up and down under the slew test.
  
• The problems are all associated with limit switch problems
  

• Screen display “RAM Error”
  
• RAM chips U29-U30
  
• Program Timer U22
  
• PC Board
  
• Bad brushes in engraving motor
  
• CPU 2.19 came out to replace2.12 to help solved Ram errors.
  

• Does your Wizzard fail to boot past the SYSTEM INITIALIZING screen? Check to see if there are any font cartridges in your machine. If there are, turn your machine OFF, remove the Font Cartridges, and then turn machine back ON. If it boots up, you know it’s either the cartridge, or one of the font/logo chips has gone bad.
  
• If you remove the cartridge and the Wizzard still doesn’t initialize, you most likely have mother board problems.
  
• XL - stuck at self init screen - bad rifas on stepper board
  
• Does not initialize
  
• CPU- A or B - Swap CPU A & B Interface chips
  
• Software U65-U69 + U74-U-76)
  
• PC Board - RIFA chips on Wizzard 1st choice
  
• Power Supply
  
• XL - Locks up at self-initialization screen. U158.
  
• Wizzard - would slew but wouldn't initialize - U9, 10, 11 and U33.
  
• Would initialize and come up without font cart. Used EFC and name was blank for External Cart font, others Okay. Standard Dahlgren cart stopped at Intilization screen. U234.
  
• XL - came up with initializing screen, also had read 2.20 at bottom . would not initialize either with one cart, but would with 2 carts - left side eprom problem.u225
  
• No screen; Hitting Power switch on/off twice usually gets screen. Had one occurrence of initialization screen and standard screen appearing at the same time. Turned about to be power supply. When it would lock up (no screen), voltages were the same as when it power up normally.
  
• Square box at bottom of XL screen (only thing that comes ups) - IO - Big Chip
  
• XL - Locks up with 'Initializing screen' - bad stepper board.
  
• Does not initialize - sometimes - locks up at init screen; also displayed font 2 error and had blank spaces as though there were more fonts than there were (had 2). U225.
  
• U14 I/O CHIP - Would slew with initialization screen, but when normal power up, no beeps, no screen.
  
• Locked up at initilization screen
  
• Wizzard - Didn’t have CPU-B chip in socket
  
• Wizzard - U22 P8253. Replaced with M5L8253P-5.
  
• Locks up initialzaing - Hisses, (Bad Rifas)
  
• Does your Wizzard fail to boot past the SYSTEM INITIALIZING screen? Check to see if there are any font cartridges in your machine. If there are, turn your machine OFF, remove the Font Cartridges, and then turn machine back ON. If it boots up, you know it’s either the cartridge, or one of the font/logo chips has gone bad.
  
• If you remove the cartridge and the Wizzard still doesn’t initialize, you most likely have mother board problems.
  
• Wizzard II - U41 & U70 - Wouldn't initialize with cartridge, but would without. Actually replaced U70 first, and said problem misread, and that U41 was all that was needed (CLAYTEX),also could be U6 or U7
  
• Wizzard/II - no initialization screen, power on red at 3.00+. Bad Rifa Chips
  
• XL - Two Beeps, but Initilization screen stayed on. - Bad power supply
  
• XL - no first beep part of screen u145
  

• XL - wouldn’t save jobs. Replaced U151 and 152. One reads and one writes. didn’t know difference, so replaced both.
  
• Cable or housing (check for bent or missing pins on inside of cartridge.
  
• WE2 (most common)
  
• Power Supply
  
• Saving exactly 160 lines and causing WE-2 chips to freeze.
  
• Can’t save one job over another
  
• Try saving over a different job.
  
• WE-2 Chips U80-83
  
• Saved job is shown in directory as garbled
  
• Power Supply
  
• E2 Chips - 1st choice
  
• RIFA Chips
  
• PC Board
  
• U72 needs calibration
  
• Not being able to store more jobs
  
• The E2’s are full. It is not based on number of jobs, but how much information or memory space is required to store each job.
  
• Example- Job 1 existing in memory with 4 lines copy stored.
  
• THIS WHOLE SECTION WOULD MAKE A GOOD ARTICEL FOR THE NETWORK. BE SURE AND MENTION PROBLEMS RON HAD, EVEN WITH 4.0.
  
• You now want to replace existing Job 1 with a new Job 1 that has 4 lines of copy. In actuality, you will have used up 4 lines from the original and 4 lines from the mew, which is a total of 8 lines from your memory. You cannot erase the original line usage from the total amount. There is room for 40 jobs or 160 lines of information.
  
• Depending on the age of your Wizzard, all Wizzards prior to July 1985 and a few after, need a connection joined on the mother board. This is considered an in-house repair. Loss of memory, B jig problems, losing home position are a few of the symptoms.
  
• When I try to save over another job, the computer hangs up and the old job is ruined
  
• The earlier Wizzards had problems with storing jobs. When you tried to load a job, you would see ‘heiroglyphics’ instead of the job you had previously saved. The problems was caused by the E2, or memory chips going bad, or the inability of the program chips (STMP chips) to store correctly. The problem can be temporarily solved by replacing the E2 chips, but will ‘reappear’ once you start trying to save jobs over old jobs. The best solution is to get the Wizzard Enhancement Kit. It includes new E2 chips, as well as all new program (STMP) chips. The new STMP program chips have been corrected so that the process of saving over old jobs will not cause the jobs to become scrambled. With the Job Storage Enhancement Kit your Wizzard’s memory may be erased and reprogrammed as many times as need be
  

Using the accent key for kerns instead of the real kern key.

Thinking that the kern will be an engraved character.

• WIZZARD XL, U158-CONTROLS KEYS (CUTTER DOWN, START, PAUSE, HOME, CANCEL)
  
• A continuous string of characters and BEEPING, types the wrong letters on the screen, will not input some letters, other letters work fine.
  
• Use dry compressed air and blow possible obstructions out from underneath all keys.
  
• Make sure that both connectors from the keyboard are firmly plugged in and line up properly.
  
• Make sure that he purple ground wire is firmly connected to the keyboard.
  
• Check for stuck keys (snap the keys, and blow out keyboard with dry air)
  
• Plastic Keyboard overlay problem - if too tight or misplaced, duplicate character. Push one key and get another. Newer covers are thinner and allow more flexibility.
  
• Plastic chips can get between the keys, especially if your Wizzard didn’t come with a plastic keyboard cover. This can cause a lot of annoying problems. We had two keys stuck at once - The Shift Key and the Move Key - which caused the Wizzard to lose Home location.
  
• Sometimes keyboard is improperly adjusted and the top row of keys are pressed tightly agains the Wizzard cover.
  
• Is there anything laying on the keyboard or one of the keys
  
• Disconnect keyboard to see if continues.
  
• The keyboard can be reparied by third party vendors.
  
• Home position inactive and slew wouldn’t work. When slewed cutter would move up and down, nothing else. Plugged in at mainboard improperly (bent pin).
  
• H.E. PHILLIPS - quick cursor flash; acted like keyboard problem. U154-U155 replaced.Jack said probably caused by keyboard not being grounded.
  

• Most common in order of occurence
  
• Stepper Motor coupiing loose between stepper motor and leadscrews
  
• Worn leadscrew
  
• Plastic leadscrew coupling
  
• Letters don’t engraver completely
  
• Check to see if cutter has backed out
  
• Make sure micrometer has become loose allowing nosecone to move up/down.
  
• if in the ceter of the plate, check to see if plate is overtightened, or bowing. Use center support bar
  
• If over most of the plate, see squaring the cutter, and leveling the table
  
• If at the top or bottom edge of the plate, where the spindle nosecone hits the clamping bars
  
• Plate tape or other engraving plates/material under the engraved plate to get it level with top of the clamping bars.
  
• Trying using a smaller sized nosecone.
  
• Check Diamond Graver to see that it is secure. Customer had problems engraving on pens; found overtightening of graver had bent metal clasp that holds graver. I could grab diamond graver and it would move relatively easy.
  
• Poor letter quality, flattened letters, wandering baseline, etc
  
• This is usually caused by a mechanical problem with either the X, Y, or both couplings. The the couplings have loosened, the motor may step, but the couplings will allow slippage, so the carriage or table will not move according to the motor steps.
  
• Check stepper motor connections.
  
• Another cause may be a bad Stepper Motor, weak RIFA chips, or4 bad STMP.
  
• Letters have flat top or bottom characters
  
• If nose cone bumps into the jig, raise plate with tape or another plate.
  
• Try a smaller nosecone
  
• Engraving Depth varies over entire plate
  
• Loose spindle-Tighten Spindle Clamping screw
  
• Using center support bar on wider plates
  
• Eccentric bar-improper movement
  
• Not squaring the cutter properly
  
• Cutter tip improperly sharpened, dull or broke
  
• Increase/Decrease engraving speed
  
• Lack of pressure on Spindle
  
• Not using a nosecone
  
• Cutter loose in spindle or cutter knob not tight
  
• Try another color or brand of material
  
• Build up of of plastics when rotary spindle prevent nosecone contant
  
• Protective covering on engraving material getting in way? Material that has gotten hot or has been in stock for a long time will ?get in way?
  
• Lettering lighter on one side of the plate (diamond or spindle)
  
• Not squaring the cutter properly
  
• Engraving surface uneven while engraving caused by
  
• Hold down screws for Jigs missing or loose
  
• Too much pressure on engraving surface
  
• Excessive pressure when securing plate in jig - plate will bow in or out preventing nose cone from squarely meeting engraving surface.
  
• No support under plate - needs Center Support Bar.
  
• Misalignment of X or Y carriage
  
• Letters have tails
  
• If using rotating spindle, try diamond graver to see if problem persists.
  
• Use screws in jig
  
• Plastic screw in top box
  
• Improperly Square cutter. Squaring with cutter in and ‘down’ most common mistake (more detail on this sentence).
  
• Use a different cutter
  
• Try using different fonts.
  
• Check couplings
  
• Letters aren’t completed or started
  
• Make sure the nosecone is making contact with jigs. If it is, try a smaller nose cone, or put another plate or masking tape under your engraving plate to get the surface level, or slightly above the jigs.
  
• Make plate is level and is not bowing or dipping from over tightening the plate in the clamping jigs.
  
• If using a wide plate, use a Center Support Bar to keep plate level during engraving
  
• Check engraving pressure spring for excessive pressure which moves or binds the engraving plate
  
• Try using a different font to check possibility of a bad font (not common)
  
• Try slowing the feed rate (Job Option screen) and increase the motor speed.This is common on harder materialsIncrease the depth of the cut.
  
• Use a different type of material. Some plastics, especially colored material with a white core, cause problems. The core is inconsistent causing engraving depth to appear inconsistent.
  
• Protective covering on engraving material getting in way
  
• Dull or broken cutter. Sometimes causes plastic to ball up inside letters.
  
• Check cutter up/down for slipping or sticking.
  
• Lubricate the eccentric bar.
  
• Reseat the eccentric bar.
  
• Ghosting on material when using Rotating spindle Spindle - Commonly called nose cone rub
  
• Check for a loose eccentric bar - tighten the set screw.
  
• Check the cutter carriage following screw for misadjustment.
  
• Not squaring the cutter properly
  
• Excessive spring pressure.
  
• Damaged nosecone - using plastic nose cone on metal causes metal chips to become imbedded, causing scratches.
  
• Soft material - some highly reflective or soft materials need to be engraved with protective left on during engraving.
  
• Uneven engraving surface - bad material or material is ‘flexing or moving’
  
• Nose cone improperly seated
  
• Per Lance 05/94 Would draw out fonts to screen on Wizzard, and looked great. Engraved and were really bad. Determine that scaling factor for screen draw and actual engraving is different. (377 vs 800 steps engraving)
  
• POOR ENGRAVING OR PLAY ON X & Y AXIS (XL)
  
• Loose leadscrew or coupling
  
• RIFA chips
  
• Stepper board
  
• PC Board
  
• Power Supply
  
• Found set screws on leadscrew coupling loose.
  
• Baselines of Letters Inconsistent/Y-axis problem
  
• RIFA chips is most common
  
• Loose leadscrew or coupling - check 8 screws on coupling between leadscrew and stepper motor.
  
• Stepper Motor - try motor from another machine or axis
  
• PC Board - Rifa chip sockets or controlling IC’s
  
• Power Supply - no common, but possible
  

• Doesn’t stop when hits limit switches
  
• QUESTIONS TO ASK:
  
• Does it happen on every job
  
• TESTS TO RUN:
  
• Run a slew test, and check the limit switches as it is slewing
  
• Test limit switches (see limit switch test procedures)
  
• Repair/Replace
  
• Limit Switch
  
• 74LS373 Port Driver Chip (U35/36)
  
• 74LS244 Port Driver Chip (U21)
  
• See Test Procedures - Limit Switch
  
• Signman board - U220 - Limit Switch POroblem when “HOME”
  
• WIZZARD MOTHER BOARD - U5 (ACTED AS THOUGH BAD LIMIT SWITCH WHEN TRYING TO get to the HOME position.
  
• XL - Hit home and X-axis carriage would stop before getting to Limit switch. Acted like limit switch. Slew irratically - Rifa's
  
• Turned on Wizzard (after repairing). Hissed as though power supply was bad. P/S voltages okay, and power getting to XYZ connectors on main board. Home switch caused noise as though XYZ crossed. Turn out that limit switch connector on main board was moved over one pin.
  
• XL - Limit switch problem - wouldn't recognize limit switch. U220
  

• See Baselines/Margins
  

• *XL-Turned on machine and X axis started moving back and forth most of the time. When it didn’t, it wouldn’t load jobs. Replaced Stepper Board; until repaired not sure ift it was RIFA chips or other component(s).
  
• Turned on Wizzard (after repairing). Hissed as though power supply was bad. P/S voltages okay, and power getting to XYZ connectors on main board. Home switch caused noise as though XYZ crossed. Turn out that limit switch connector on main board was moved over one pin.
  
• PAUSE AT CUTTER DOWNm Replaced U1
  
• Wizzard II Problem with error message on screen “PAUSE AT CUTTER DOWN”; large chip at U14 is Interface Chip CP82C55A - could cause this problem. Problem could be R3 and R4 (not sure of these #’s) resistors, could cause this problem.
  
• Goes to lower right hand corner
  
• Reset Home
  
• Replace E2’s
  
• COUNTER ERROR - XL
  
• U230 (8253, put in upside down)
  
• 'Message Error' - Bad C-Table Chip
  
• Garbage or odd characters in description of Jigs in JOB OPTION, bad WE2's.
  

• The motor speed will not vary at all, or seems to vary by itself, and everything else operates fine
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• Engraving Motor
  
• Potentieometer
  
• New style power pak - Cutter RPM problem is probably within power pak, Engraving speed is with motherboard.
  

• Wizzard-Check Red and black wires coming from AC Distribution board to power back. Should be 120 V. If not, bad wiring or AC Distribution Board.
  
• Check power cord - plugged in? Broken wire?
  
• Check output on power supply
  
• RIFA chips- one bad chip can overload system - pull RIFA’s
  
• AC Distribution board
  
• On/Off Switch
  
• Cable connectors
  
• PC board for circuit short or IC
  
• 05/25/93-Mulhollands. No power, power supply dead. AUX. & MOTOR switches worked when pressed. Bad Power Supply switch.
  

• ON/OFF SWITCH DOESN’T WORK
  
• Do they have the new or old style
  
• New style - does the power switch light up
  
• Does the engraving motor work
  
• Tests To Run
  
• Check fuses
  
• Check voltages on the Power Supply
  
• Use arrows to move axis
  
• Repair/replace
  
• Fuses
  
• On/Off switch assembly
  
• Power Supply
  
• Switches don’t light up or auxiliary fuse blown
  
• Blown bulb or loose connection
  
• Wiring Short
  
• Short in on/off switch
  
• (Older models) The switches that can be used for replacements are the Federal Signal Switch at a cost of $5.00 each (try your electronics supply house). A small amount of filing is needed to put the switch in the mounting bracket.
  

• Check to see if plate square (cut properly).
  
• Unevenly cut edge (rounded) plastic material.
  
• Are appropriate jigs being used for item to be engraved?
  
• Donut, rod and spring
  
• Take out spring, stretch, and replace.
  
• If the clamping doughnut is brass like most of the older Wizzards, then you need the updated version made of steel. If it is necessary to replace the donut, it is recommended that your replace the old CLAMPING ROD, or the same problem will reoccur

• The machine operates, but the power switch does not light up.
  
• AC Switch Pack
  
• No Power At All
  
• Questions To Ask:
  
• Does the power switch light up
  
• Does the engraving motor work
  
• TESTS TO RUN:
  
• Test the outlet the machine is plugged into, or plug into anotheroutlet
  
• Try a slew test for any movement
  
• Check fuses
  
• Use the auxilliary plug to test the flow of current
  
• Check the voltages on the Power Supply
  
• Repair/Replace
  
• Fuses
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• Power Supply
  

• We have used our seven year old Wizzard satisfactorily for many years for engraving small characters on stainless steel tags. This produced a deep cut giving a distinct, easily readable text. We recently purchased a Wizzard XL which has reduced down pressure on the spindle, and even on the ‘HI’ setting only produces a fine shallow cut. Can you advise if the down pressure has been reduced on XL? Any suggestions? I have an extra cutter box which I purchased for my Wizzard II. Is it interchangeable with the XL?
  
• The cutter box (which contains the spring) is interchangeable between the Wizzard and the XL. Earlier Wizzard amd XL models did seem to have a stronger spring in the cutter box. We use to take the cutter boxes apart on the earlier XL’s and “de-strengthen” the spring steel plate. We put it in a vice and worked it back and forth to make the tension less for burnishing. You might take yours apart and see if you can re-enforce it, or replace it with a stronger tensile strength of steel.
  
• Here’s another approach you might try. Use a rotary spindle with a diamond tipped cutter. The diamond tip cutter was used on earlier pantograph engravers so that the operator didn’t have to take 5-10 minutes to change from diamond engraving to rotary engraving. Instead, the operator placed a diamond tipped “cutter” in the rotary spindle. It looks just like the diamond on your Wizzard diamond engraver you are now using, except it is longer and it screws in like a cutter. It doesn’t require a nose cone, and you can use you motor to increase the “cut”.
  
• You might also try using a diamond tipped burnishing cutters. Because of their hardness, they don’t grab the metal as standard burnishing tips do.
  

• Check cable to see if properly installed.
  
• Check Printer Setup
  
• WE2
  
• PC Board -IC U98 & 90
  
• XL-Printer printed garbage; replaced U127 & 128 with no luck. Had to replace U-139.
  
• XL locked up or started flashing (random errors) when tried to print. Replaced C127 (Mauston,WI).
  

• XL - pushed down on main board; and during program, randomly reset. U201 Processor had bent pins that sometimes touched.
  
• WIZZARD 2 REINITIALIZE - U22 TIMING CHIP
  
• Wizzard - Shift compute caused reset - #6 chip on CPU -A (MCS)
  
• WIZZARD XL System would reset after while entering 15 or more lines. Swapped U14 & U16. Problem completely resolved.
  

• WARNING: HANDLE WITH CARE!!! The CRT has power in excess of 5,000 Volts. Do not use metal tools when making adjustments, use only the proper plastic tools.
  
• Common problems and checks associated with the CRT.
  
• My Wizzard XL’s screen started moving, or squeezing in from left and right to the middle when the Z axis was engaged (either by CUTTER DOWN or engraving. The problem turned out to be a bad power supply.
  
• Uneven baselines on the screenwhen Shift+ Computer - C-table chip
  
• The display on the CRT shrinks when the cutter goes up and own.
  
• Power Supply
  
• Contrast and brightness
  
• Use contrast knob on the right side of Wizzard.
  
• Screen jumps, static appears
  
• 10 MHZ Diode Crystal Y2
  
• Character generator U-89
  
• Video RamU90-97
  
• Screen Vibrates or Shakes
  
• CRT adjustment
  
• Power Supply
  
• Engraving Motor/motor brushes
  
• Strange characters on screen
  
• Video ram U90-97
  
• Character generator chip U89
  
• Software U65-69 & U74-76
  
• PC Board
  
• Could also be E2’s
  
• Strange characters on screen at boot-up
  
• Power Supply - If Shift+Reset clears and restarts successfully, no doubt it’s the power supply
  
• No picture on CRT
  
• Plug monitor into video port. If it works, CRT is most likely bad.
  
• Check power switch light. If not lit, change fuse.
  
• Check for proper connections on CRT.
  
• Pull all RIFA chips to check if CRT will function.
  
• Power Supply sometimes overloads RIFA chips.
  
• If screen blank, no beep, U112
  
• Power Supply - 24 Volt line - rare occurrence
  
• PC board
  
• RIFA chip(s)
  
• Crystal Y-2
  
• Screen is covered with snow, or the background is green or amber in color, but the text still appears.
  
• Adjust the contrast and brightness controls on the right side of the machine until a clear picture is obtained.
  
• Had problem with screen jitters in two seperate cases. By hitting case, screen was jittery, or almost unreadable.
  
• Had to adjust monitor cable so it would fit tigher on one. (Houston Wizz. II)
  
• By moving circuit board of monitor, screen would go crazy (Mesquite Rubber Stamp). Replace monitor and problem ceased. Finally gave hime external monitor. Couln’t afford CRTr.
  
• Trademarks(Houston) - “Little sparkles all over the screen & it reverts by to the system initilizing screen & hangs up there. Turned out to be bad power supply.
  
• No screen, but the machine beeps after 30 to 40 seconds. The machine slews fine.
  
• Test the power supply for power. Test the 12 and 24 volt lines with a voltage regulator for the correct voltage.
  
• Make sure that the connector from the CRT is firmly plugged into the CPU Board.
  
• Check the main video driver Chip (location U89 marked on the mother board).
  
• Make a complete visual check to make sure that the filament is glowing in the CRT tube.
  
• The screen is covered with diagonal lines.
  
• If it is a Motorola CRT (has a silver frame, and most have an amber screen.), it must be replaced.
  
• If it is an Audiotronics CRT (has a gold frame), try adjusting the horizontal sync control in combination with the horizontal width control until a stabilized screen appears. Leave on for one hour to insure that the adjustment point is stable. If the screen will not remain stable, the CRT must be replaced.
  
• The screen rolls vertically.
  
• If it is a Motorola CRT (has a silver frame), adjust the vertical sync control until a stabilized screen appears. Leave on for one hour to insure that the adjustment point is stable. If the screen will not remain stable, the CRT must be replaced.
  
• If it is an Audiotronics CRT (has a gold frame), adjust the vertical sync in conjunction with the vertical linearity control until a stabilized screen appears. It should have 1/4” margin at the top and bottom of the screen. Leave on for one hour to insure that the adjustment point is stable. If the screen will not remain stable, the CRT must be replaced.
  
• The screen is covered with snow, or the background is green or amber in color, but the text still appears.
  
• Adjust the contrast and brightness controls on the right side of the machine until a clear picture is obtained.
  
• The screen is covered with snow, or the background is green or amber in color, but no test appears.
  
• Wizzard - check the 8 Video Rams (location marked U90-97 on the mother board).
  
• Here are some common problems and checks associated with the CRT.
  
• No screen, but the machine beeps after 30 to 40 seconds. The machine slews fine.
  
• Test the power supply for power. Test the 12 and 24 volt lines with a voltage regulator for the correct voltage.
  
• Make sure that the connector from the CRT is firmly plugged into the CPU Board.
  
• Check the main video driver Chip (location U89 marked on the mother board).
  
• Make a complete visual check to make sure that the filament is glowing in the CRT tube.
  
• Check the 8 Video Rams (location marked U90-97 on the mother board).
  
• MISCELLANOUS CRT NOTES
  
• It is always a good idea to have an external monitor on hand. Not only is it easier to read than the standard CRT, it is handy if your CRT goes blank.
  
• The Audiotronics CRT has a gold frame around the front, and most have a green screen.
  
• In testing circuitry, theCRT is the last to received image. Goes through Video generator & ram chips. Seperate circuit to external monitor.
  
• If red power switch not lit, change fuse.
  
• Test for other machine functions - slew
  
• Pull all RIFA chips to check if CRT will operate
  
• Replacement parts - RIFA chips, fuse, Power supply, and other stand. stuff.
  

• XL BOARD - REV G. - Changed Processors from AMD P8085A-2 (AMD Brand), to OKI MSM80C85ARS and started working OK. However, when trying to draw to screen (SHIFT+COMPUTE), screen garbled and crashed. Put pack originals, and screen problem went away.
  
• XL - Shift compute would cause spirograph type graphics. Turned out to be CPU-A microprocessor.
  
• Wizzard - Shift compute caused reset - #6 chip on CPU -A (MCS)
  
• Will not compute when the COMPUTE Key is pressed, or draw out the job when SHIFT+COMPUTE is pressed.
  
• E2’s or WE2
  
• Stuck keys, or possible bad key
  
• The job had already been computed (the job can not be drawn after it has already been computed and hasn’t been engraved or cancelled.
  
• Check layout, baseline, letter height, plate size
  
• The letter height was set a 0.
  
• Entering a plate size larger than 5 x 8.
  
• Failed to enter text
  
• After computing the job, you press the start key and the cutter goes all the way to the right and starts engraving.
  
• Reset Home position. If problem persists, most likely E2’s.
  
• Old Motorola monitor won't work on XL- Sometimes won't initialize
  
• New moniotors for XL won't work on Older Wizzards
  
• Shipping In Machine
  
• Wizzard - when sending in a machine, REMOVE YOUR POWER CORD FROM THE SOCKET. I have seen it break the connector where it plugs in during transit.
  
• While engraving, cutter would take off in various directions. When Shift+Compute, you could could see a line, which in turn the cutter would follow. If Shift+Computer okay, engraving would be okay. Turned out to be CPU B processor.
  

• XL - U156-SELF TEST (SLEW)
  
• XL - Won't Slew, but will initialize. ON/OFF button in back is ON.
  
• XL - When tried to slew went to lower right corner and growled. Bad Power Supply'
  
• LIMIT SWITCH BACKWARDS - WOULDN'T SLEW
  
• System Does Not Slew
  
• RIFA’s U103-U108 (Wizzard)
  
• Axis connectors
  
• Stepper motor
  
• Keyboard
  
• PC Board
  

• RIFA chips
  
• CPU A or B - U15 or U16
  
• Software
  
• CPUB 2.12 U27
  
• PC Board
  
• Sharon Boyd - bad potentiometer
  
• Stepper Motors
  

• Rivet In Start Hole
  
• START appears at bottom of screen when first boots up. Pressing COMPUTE, nothing happens since there is no job setup. After pressing START screen back to normal, but after pressing ENTER to enter layout, START appears at bottom. Problem was a bad keyboard.
  
• Wizzard XL-Was using rivet in START. Started to continually start automatically. Replaced U225.
  
• Leaving test plug in START hole
  
• Keyboard
  
• Keyboard cover too tight, key rubbing against black keyboard frame, or key rubbing against machine cover.
  
• On Wiz U21 Pin 11
  
• PC Board - keyboard circuitry - R37 remove, cut trace
  

• Wizzard/XL/Mark XII - Pust start and quickly see JOB COMPLETED. No text entered
  

• External Font Cart being used
  
• Bad or improperly inserted chips can prevent initialization. If this occurs, immediately turn the machine off and remove the cartridge.
  
• No Power
  
• If POWER SWITCH doesn’t light up, check POWER SWITCH fuse.
  
• Try a slew test for any movement.
  
• Check fuses.
  
• Test the outlet the machine is plugged into, or plug into another outlet.
  
• Check machine power cord
  
• Check contacts in female end of power cord.Properly plugged in to machine and to wall out
  
• Possible Mechanical Problems
  
• Power Supply If voltage to Black and White not there, check and see if motor works. May be AC Board, but could be power switch.
  
• RIFA chips
  
• AC Distribution Board
  
• On/Off Switch
  
• Cable connection to main board.
  
• Does Not Initialize
  
• CPU A or B
  
• RIFA chips
  
• The system initializes (you can hear the beep), but there is nothing on the CRT.
  
• STMP
  
• Power Supply
  
• CRT
  
• No initialization (does not beep or go to first screen).
  
• Power Supply
  

• Engraving motor (Try Diamond)
  
• Bad filter
  
• Brushes grounding
  
• Bottom screw on motor not getting good contact on pan assy
  
• Intermittent - bad connection on PC Board
  
• Keyboard
  
• Power Supply
  
• CPU A
  

• Most Common Problems in order of occurence
  
• Rifa Chips
  
• Lack of Lubrication (see website for proper way). Trying slewing machine.
  
• Rifa Sockets on Motherboard
  
• Stepper Motor (try swapping with Z) All motors are interchangeable
  
• Stepper Motor Connector
  
• Coupling (connects motor to leadscrew) - loose screws
  
• WE2 Chips (store home, start acting like stepper motor)
  
• If using engraving motor, try it without it. Sometimes motor will send out static and cause interference.
  
• Leadscrew or leadscrew coupling - trying moving machine by hand. Usuall if smooth problem is electrical.
  
• Moves to lower right on starup
  
• Relay (U10 or U11) on Stepper Driver Board - Mullhollands.
  
• XL - When slewing or trying to engrave, X moves to right and Y moves very slowly.
  
• Replace E2
  
• Doesn’tMove Smoothly
  
• Questions to ask, are there any obstructions (Bee 3 table problems)
  
• Can you manually move table with machine on?
  
• Does it happen on all jobs/fonts
  
• Run slew test
  
• Lubricate the leadscrew, slew 4 or 5 times.
  
• Check RIFA chips for temperature (hot-good or cold-bad)
  
• Most common replacements - Rifa Chips or stepper motors
  

• See Eccentric Bar